Tell it how wide you want the piece and your gauge (or pick a typical one), and it gives the exact starting chain including the turning chain — for any stitch, with stitch-multiple repeats handled.
Chains = (width × stitches per unit) + turning chain. If your pattern has a stitch repeat (“multiple of 3 + 2”), round the stitch count to that multiple first, then add the turning chain. The calculator does both.
| Yarn | Hook | sc per 4 in | dc per 4 in |
|---|---|---|---|
| #1 Fingering | 2.25–3 mm | 28–32 | 24–28 |
| #2 Sport | 3–3.5 mm | 22–26 | 18–22 |
| #3 DK | 3.5–4.5 mm | 18–22 | 15–18 |
| #4 Worsted | 5–5.5 mm | 14–16 | 12–14 |
| #5 Bulky | 6–9 mm | 10–12 | 8–11 |
| #6 Super bulky | 9–15 mm | 6–8 | 5–7 |
These are starting points. Your hands are your gauge — swatch before a big project.
Chains = (finished width × stitches per inch or cm from your gauge) + turning chain. For a 50 in throw at 3.5 sc per inch that's 175 + 1 = 176 chains. Because chains stretch and then relax, make a gauge swatch and measure it first.
The extra chains at the start that stand in for the first stitch's height: +1 for single crochet, +2 for half double, +3 for double crochet, +4 for treble (US terms). Some patterns count it as a stitch, some don't — the calculator lets you choose.
Chains are naturally tighter than stitches worked into them. Use a hook one size larger for the chain only, or use a foundation single/double crochet, which builds the chain and first row together with the same stretch.
Count the V shapes on the front, never the loop on the hook and never the slip knot. For long chains, place a stitch marker every 20 or 50 chains.
Related: Yarn calculator · How to chain · Stitch dictionary
In Crochets you type the width you want and pick a stitch — it writes the foundation chain, every row and the yarn amount for you.
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